Alpaca Pleats Jacket – IK Winter

Posted on | December 8, 2009 | 6 Comments

The Winter IK issue is out and I have a short sleeved cardigan in it, the Alpaca Pleats Jacket. Unfortunately, this is one of those projects that came down to the wire for me, so I didn’t have a chance to take any proper modeled photos. The best I did was a photo of it lying flat on my couch on a hanger.

I really should have shown it modeled with the front left open. One of the unanticipated issues I had with this design was that the pleats flip out a bit when the clasps are closed. The stress placed on the front bands when the cardigan is closed tends to flip up the pleats. When the cardigan is left open, the flipping is minimized. But there are potential fixes. One is to orient the pleats in towards the direction of the side seams rather than out towards the center.

I put together a small tutorial outlining how to do this. In the original instructions, the pleats fold at the turning ridge and are tacked back to the wrong side of the garment. The pleat at the edge of the front bands (at the center of the cardigan) is the bottom pleat, with the other pleats (that are picked up at staggered points along the band) overlapping it. In the new instructions, the pleat at the edge of the front bands overlap the other pleats; and the pleats fold at the turning ridge and are tacked to the right side of the garment (the attachment point is hidden since the pleats overlap and cover it). Following the tutorial, I have a few photos of a swatch I worked up with the pleats down and up (to make the construction more clear). I hope this method works for those of you who might want the pleats to be less flippy (Click image for a bigger view).
PleatCardi_addendum
pleat2pleat1

I’d also recommend giving the pleats a good dose of steam to help them lie flat. Steam also brings out the shine in alpaca and silk. Just be sure to not touch the iron directly on the fabric. I’ve burned Alpaca Silk once when I inadvertently set an iron down on a blocking sweater!

Category: Interweave Knits, design

Comments

6 Responses to “Alpaca Pleats Jacket – IK Winter”

  1. Ruth
    December 8th, 2009 @ 5:16 pm

    I wondered when I saw this in the magazine if the pleats were angled as they were to frame the face. However, I think the revised direction would do the same and end up wearing nicer. Thanks for the alternative construction.

  2. marri
    December 8th, 2009 @ 5:37 pm

    you always create the most beautiful designs, and i know everyone who knits this one will be thrilled with your alternative instructions!

  3. Jani
    December 8th, 2009 @ 9:52 pm

    I like this design, but I LOVE the one in the Twist December issue – good work!

  4. mary jane
    December 18th, 2009 @ 10:50 am

    Oh the anguish of seeing your design, not like you intended! It is still pretty in the magazine, though, don’t fret, though everyone will appreciate your thoughtful alternate directions.

    My heart goes out to you, deadline knitting at the holidays, poor dear!

  5. Anna
    December 21st, 2009 @ 7:53 am

    Hi Connie,

    I actually like the way the pleats flip out!

  6. Heidi
    December 23rd, 2009 @ 1:06 am

    Another winner. I love all your designs for the incredible detail and this one is especially nice. I am a sucker for the tucks.

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